Saturday, October 2, 2010

What a day. Rue Mouffetard, 100 Profiterols, and Le Chateaubriand. This is why I came to France. Around 10:30 I met Miguel and Michael at Rue Monge for a day at the market. Rue Mouffetard is one of the oldest streets in Paris, having been around since Roman times. Passing next to a real Roman Gladiator ring was quite an experience, the seats and cages still in place. Reaching Rue Mouffetard, One notices a narrowing of the streets, sort of a changing of time to older days. Markets, restaurants and shops covered the sides of the street, which is cut off to traffic because of it's every day market. 
Rue Mouffetard

A large hare at a boucherie
Roti, the most beautiful thing on the planet

A selection of Fowl

As you can see, a guy like me could live on this road for years, and never be bored, but alas, 2 hours was long enough, and we walked to a sort of China town, and to a Chinese Grocery where I purchased Cuttlefish flavored snacks, (delicious) and admired all the things unavailable in the U.S, such as durian, and tiny skipping shrimp. Then it was off to dinner at Le Chateaubriand, highly touted in the food world as one of the top 15 restaurants. Needless to say we were very excited, but nervous, because we had to wait in line for the second seating. When you walk in, you would never expect it to be such a mecca for high end cuisine. A crowd of onlookers waits while seats fill, waiting for their turn. Americans, French, Germans, and Italians filled the bar area, waiting for their chance. At the bar, our group (Afonso, Miguel, Michael and I) had a glass of red wine while we waited for our Golden Ticket so to speak. we were seated in the back near the kitchen. Let's just get this out of the way, this is not a typical restaurant. It is not dry, starchy or pretentious like most restaurants of this stature, and it is very cheap. Music blaring, chefs screaming, waiters drinking, all added to the experience. Much different then most places in France. When we were seated, a tray of gruyere profiterols were placed in front of us, they were very good, but nothing exceptional.  



Then a tiny shot glass with a piece of a shrimp floating inside, strange presentation, but it was the epitome of a ceviche, fresh, salty acidic and sweet everything that's wanted in a opening dish. 

Next was a tiny piece of lamb with fig, grapes, tomato concasse, and coriander seeds. Delicious, but with a few too many coriander seeds

Then fresh, barely cooked tiny shrimp, served Au Naturale on a plate. Popping the whole thing in my mouth,  it was as fresh as seafood gets. 

A broth made from duck, with mint, chestnuts, and mushrooms. This confused me, it was just broth.. 

Then the appetizer came. A potato puree, with squid slices placed oh-so-softly inside, with the taste of cumin coming from somewhere. Pickled shallots, and potato chips, with a round of Kalamata olive puree on the side. The potatoes were so light, the squid barely touched, raw as could be, and the pickled shallots cutting the richness perfectly, I may steal this dish.

Fish course was a lightly cooked cod, those pickled shallots again, a pili pili (Fancy name for mayonnaise) and some "Green Shit" as my mother would say. Unrecognizable foliage if you will. Keeping with the norm, the fish was barely cooked, only the skin ever so slightly crisped.


The meat course was full of imagination, but tasted of a Sunday dinner your mother would make. Braised beef cheeks, with carrots and turnips, a spicy broth with radishes and salted fish, and a curry foam. A great fall dish. My mother doesn't like curry, so I have no chance of ever receiving this dish.


Then dessert. Normally, I would just get the cheese and be done with it, but the dessert here, was crazy. Walking in we saw a table eating it. Fruit with a nuclear read powder covering it, and a simple ice cream dish, that turned out to be not so simple. So, I went against my morals, and got the dessert.
Raspberries, strawberry meringue kisses, strawberry cake, and purple basil. Fairly simple. But it was dusted with this powder made from Raspberries, which I will tell you, is a very strenuous process. It was so bright, and so light, I barely noticed I had eaten anything. Beautiful early fall dessert.


Second dessert was more simple, served in a plain bowl. Ice cream, white stuff, crumble. But when eaten, it was very complex. Corn ice cream, barely sweetened, buttermilk, and a cornbread crumble of sorts. I would have expected it before the fruit dessert because it was so savory, but it was a beautiful end to a beautiful dinner regardless.

 Le Chateaubriand is very different from any other restaurant I have been to, but the food is some of the best I have eaten.
Next week is busy, with class, class dinner, and my birthday. Should be fun.

No comments:

Post a Comment